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I'm claiming the Paw Paw Tunnel for West Virginia. Come at me Maryland!
The Paw Paw Tunnel is a 3000 foot, historic tunnel on the C&O Canal in Maryland (just across the border from WV) that cut through a mountain to bypass the "Paw Paw Bends" of the Potomac River, shortening the route of the canal by six miles. Started in 1836, construction took 14 years and over 6 million bricks!
Today, it's an opportunity to take a fun little hike through history.
The tunnel is located at mile 155.9 of the Chesapeak & Ohio Canal and is a short hike from C&O Canal National Historic Park. The park itself has camping, old-timey water pumps, a picnic area and an old, restored building on the property (which was locked).
The Hike In
The trail from the parking area to the tunnel entrance is a relatively easy, well-maintained path along the C&O Canal towpath. Along the way, you'll pass informative signs depicting the construction of the tunnel - which was completed in 1850
The signs also tell the story of what this tunnel actually meant to canal boat operators. Six miles doesn't sound like much to someone hopping in a car, but when you're moving cargo by mule-pulled boat, six miles is a very big deal. The original budget for the project was around $30,000. It ran significantly over - which, honestly, feels like a very relatable government project.
Into the Tunnel
Here's the thing about the Paw Paw Tunnel - photos do not do it justice. Walking in, you can see straight through to the other end, a small circle of light about 3,000 feet away. It sounds manageable. It is not as manageable as it sounds.
The tunnel is cool, damp, and gets progressively darker the further you get from either end. The path underfoot is uneven in places, so watch your step. There's a handrail along one side, which you will absolutely use.
Bring a flashlight. I cannot stress this enough. We had one, and at a certain point in the middle of the tunnel, I turned it off just to see what it was like. My steps immediately went from normal sized to baby steps. There's something about complete darkness that your brain just doesn't love, even when you're standing next to a wall with a handrail right in front of you.
The Other Side
Popping out the other end of the tunnel feels genuinely satisfying. The view looking back from the far portal is great - worth taking a minute to appreciate before turning around. Because yes, you do have to walk back through. That's how tunnels work.
Final Thoughts
The Paw Paw Tunnel is free, it's accessible, it's genuinely impressive, and it's about as close to West Virginia as Maryland gets. The round-trip hike is easy enough for most fitness levels and the whole experience - parking to parking - can be done in a couple of hours.
If you're in the Eastern Panhandle area looking for something a little different to do, this is absolutely worth the drive. Just bring a flashlight. And maybe leave the lights on.
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